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Before it became a beloved condiment, the tomato, the primary ingredient in modern ketchup, had a tumultuous journey to culinary acceptance. For centuries in Northern Europe and the United States, many viewed tomatoes with deep suspicion, even considering them poisonous due to their botanical relation to the deadly nightshade family. However, by the early 19th century, a growing appreciation for the fruit (Review) emerged, fueled in part by prominent figures like Thomas Jefferson, who cultivated and consumed them. This shift in perception opened the door for claims of their therapeutic benefits, leading to a fascinating, albeit brief, chapter in food and medical history.
In the 1830s, an American physician named Dr. John Cook Bennett became a fervent advocate for the medicinal qualities of tomatoes. He asserted that tomatoes, and by extension, tomato-based ketchup, possessed curative powers for a range of ailments, including indigestion, diarrhea, jaundice, and even cholera. Dr. Bennett was so convinced of these properties that he began marketing concentrated ketchup in the form of "tomato pills." This sparked a widespread "tomato pill craze," with other companies quickly producing their own versions, often advertised with catchy jingles touting the pills as a cure for all ills.
However, the era of medicinal ketchup was short-lived, largely fading by the 1850s. As medical understanding advanced, chemists and experts began to question these exaggerated health claims. Investigations revealed that many of the so-called "tomato pills" contained little to no actual tomato extract, often being little more than laxatives or other dubious compounds. The lack of scientific evidence and the unscrupulous practices of some manufacturers led to a rapid decline in demand for medicinal ketchup. While its medicinal reputation waned, the tomato's positive association with health lingered, and it eventually found its true calling as a culinary staple, solidifying its place in kitchens worldwide thanks to innovations in preservation and taste by companies like Heinz in the late 19th century.